APPAREL
NEW BRAND IN STORE: A-COLD-WALL*
AW19 BIRTH.ORGAN.SYNTH COLLECTION BY SAMUEL ROSS
BIRTH.ORGAN.SYNTH marks the AW19 ACW* collection. The setting, the dark Blackwater abyss is a symbolic interpretation of the collective individuals innate battle with carnal human fear and the crippling blindness that so often leads to nationalistic ignorance and the captivity of movement.
This season, nylons are reflectively piped; jerseys and fleeces are vegetable-dyed; compasses are hiding within garments; badges are hand-sewn; raised-rubber logo plaques double as fasteners on trousers to alter the fit. This collection also marks a debut denim collaboration with Diesel for the RED-TAG Project and showcased new reiterations of A-COLD-WALL* x Nike.
Movement is the key ideology in this collection. Samuel explores the oscillation between dynamic liquid forms and static flatness, creating physical screenshots of molten movement and the natural life cycle of an organic product. The phrase ‘MODERN*’ also becomes a leitmotif — an ideology, even.
Pockets are concealed within seams that travel unconventional routes around the garment mapping out the close relationship between the body, organ positioning and garment functionality.
Prints and graphics are borrowed from the virtual bridges between communities across the world. There are pixilations of pebbledash walls closer to home; CGI graphics; Geo-maps; colours borrowed from Thermoreactive scales.
Ross studied graphic design and illustration at De Montfort University in Leicester and after graduation went into commercial design, balancing his professional work with his own creative output, which spanned experimental film, street art and a streetwear label named 2wnt4 — which he set up with long-time friend Ace Harper.
During this time, in April 2013, he caught the eye of Off- White founder Virgil Abloh, who hired Ross to work for him as a creative assistant before the inception of Off-WHITE and during its formative period.
He founded A-COLD-WALL* in 2015 as a self-funded label inspired by the British class system that reflects on Ross’s personal story: growing up in a working-class neighbourhood and studying design. Since launching the label Ross has gained a loyal following and steady growth, landing him global stockists including Barneys New York, GR8 in Tokyo and Selfridges in London. Ross uses a direct approach to his fan base, carefully evolving his label on his own terms. In 2018 he unveiled an A-COLD-WALL* womenswear line.
In 2017, A-Cold-Wall was one of the NEWGEN recipients. The label was a finalist for the ANDAM grand prize award in 2018 and was one of the finalists for the LVMH Prize. In the same year, he won the prize for Emerging British Designer at the 2018 British Fashion Awards. Samuel Ross was also featured in the Forbes under 30 list, as well as the Business of Fashion 500. To date, Ross has collaborated with Daniel Arsham, FUTURA, Hiroshi Fujiwara and the Architectural Association School of Architecture and yielded a diverse array of capsule collections.
His work with Nike and Oakley has cemented him as a valued artistic contact for both companies – three seasons of collaborations being the result.
Beyond A-COLD-WALL*, Samuel Ross has turned his hand to curating living spaces by way of CONCRETE OBJECTS. Alongside designer Jobe Burns, Ross takes rough brutalist aesthetics and refines them in the creation of impactful objects for daily use.
